Germany 2009

We are in Germany at last!!!!

We left Delfzil on Tuesday morning at about 9 am. I was very apprehensive and it was very sad to say goodbye to Lois and Bob. Monday we went out for dinner to celebrate my coming birthday (the big 6o!!!) and to say goodbye. There weren’t many restaurants open and we had to settle on pizzas. They were crisp but very tasty.

The weather was very kind to us. It was a gorgeous sunny day with winds at about 9klm/hour. It was very easy sailing and quite uneventful until the police boat came past and stopped us. We were sailing  in the middle of the green and red channel markers. He told us to move closer to the right of the channel and took our details. Russel said that it was because I was driving and I felt safer away from the shallow waters. I must admit I did feel safer. The thing about this trip is the wind and the tides could be against us but it all worked for us as Russel had been aware of this and selected the appropriate time and day so sailing the  Dollards (Dutch) or the Dollarts as the Germans call it was fairly uneventful but challenging.

                                                              

Goodbye to Lois and Bob

House being towed across the Dollart

This was the only boat we saw going across apart from the police boat!!

We came into Emden via a huge loch – 40 meters wide and 220 meters long. We were unsure how to attach to the walls but as we were the only ones in the loch we weren’t that worried. Then the doors opened again and the house that we saw in the Dollart came in too. This house was made in Heereveen in Holland and towed to Emden where it is now on show in the marina.

The house in the big loch with us

We sailed into the middle of Emden town and saw heaps of places to stay so pulled up and plugged into the power and have been here for a few days.

 

We spent some time working on getting internet and have found a vodafone system which allows us to book either 15 minutes or 1 hour every time we log on and it is using a phone card system. So as long as we don’t receive heaps of very big emails which hasn’t been happening, we will be OK.

We have been keeping in touch with Amanda and Josh via the Skype. Before we left the Netherlands, David put Joshua on skype, we didn’t get a smile but he was very interested in trying to find out where the voices were coming from. He has grown so much and is now three months old. Only 6 more weeks and I will see him. Amanda sends us photos from time to time.

Today we spent some time exploring Emden. We went to the local museum which was in the old Stadhuis. One section showed all the weapons that they had in the 15 century. I have never seen so many large rifles in one place. It was fascinating.

Tomorrow we leave on our next adventure in Germany. So far we have found Germany to be great and the people very friendly. The youth are certainly different from those in the Netherlands. They remind me of the youth in Australia. I see a lot of strange hair – colour and style, rings in ears, noses etc. Last night some raged all night and cut the chains of the house which moved further down the canal and stopped against a sailing boat. I wonder if its because the Dutch youth spend lots of time sailing that they seem more adjusted.

We didn’t leave Emden- our internet didn’t work so we spent three hours in the Vodafone shop trying to get it to work. We will try it again tomorrow so let’s hope we have it working.

We decided to visit the bunker museum. This was built in the Second World War for protection. It was the one of the only buildings left standing in Emden in the town centre. It was all about Hitler and the Jews. What we could read it was interesting.

We then went for a ride to the Kesselscheluse (Kessel Loch). This was a circular loch with entrances on the four points of the compass. Very different from what we are use to.

Round loch

We stayed in Emden , but caught the bus to a place called Aurich which was 25 klms from Emden. We were told to visit the church, but once again when we arrived it was the wrong day and it was locked. However luck was with us – a young girl came to put something back into the church and Russel asked if we could have a look. The churches here are certainly different to most European churches. Not as elaborate and have there own style.

                              Russel in Aurich – this was a wall that was covered in
                                  plaster paris food.

Friday night we spent drinking on a Dutch boat. This couple had just returned from sailing to Denmark. He spoke a German and English and the more drinks he had the more confused he got to which language to use. Russel had to remind him that he must speak English to us. For dinner she gave us some smoked halibut on a roll. It was very yummy!!

We left Emden the next day to travel down the Ems SeitenKanal to Oldersum – there is nothing here!!!

                                                 

We are waiting for the tide to change so we can leave here and head for Leer, where we hope to find a restaurant to celebrate!! – I turned 60 today – is it really a celebration!!

Well Sunday came and went and now I am 60. Thanks to all those well wishes. I had a good day. We went through the loch at Oldersum easily and turned into the Ems River. We were going 17klm per hour. The most we had ever been was 11, so the tide was really helping.

    

                                                 Hopefully showing the fast flow

I was a little concerned with the fast flowing river, but more so about running a ground. As we turned off the river into the Leer Russel found it really hard to get through the rushing water but he put the power on and got through it. We had to wait two hours for the sea lock to open so we moored on a jetty where the harbour master helped us. He told us where to go once we got through the loch, so things went very smoothly. The loch got me though and we ended up taking a bit of paint off the sides of the boat.

Leer was a pretty little town. I didn’t realize it was going to be so big. The harbour master told us where to go for dinner so we had a really interesting meal to celebrate my birthday plus a few wines. I had onion soup followed by a pork medallion covered in tiny little prawns, champignons and hollandaise sauce. All very tasty!!!

We spent the next day exploring the town. Riding over the cobble stone roads can be fun. One certainly can feel every stone and ones’ body just shakes. We try and get onto the footpaths as much as possible. We went into a few more churches which were magnificent.

                                          One of the many statues in Leer

We left Tuesday at 2pm. That’s the time the sea loch is opened. I was really nervous about going back out the sea lock so I put my life jacket on.   It was the bit that where the canal joins the river that is most scary. We followed another boat and he started to go sideways when he hit so I was really scared then. Russel however gave it heaps of power and we went through easily. I was so relieved and when I looked at Russel I could see that he was too!!!

We followed heaps of barges and went through heaps of lochs without a problem I think I have mastered how to do these big lochs now.

Well that certainly was the wrong statement. The next loch was a total disaster!!!!  The following is how Russel’s describes it.

Germany is a bit more difficult to move around  - people don’t speak English as much as in the Netherlands nor is the place set up for English speaking  tourists as the Netherlands. Distances are a lot larger between towns also. We had a real problem yesterday – we drove 6 hours from a place called Dorpen to Oldenburg – a fairly boring canal the Kusten – we got to Oldenburg about 5pm – we had to go through a lock from the canal into the tidal Unter River. We went into the lock and Penny passed the bow line to a fellow from the commercial barge that had gone in before us – that is when it all started. Our boat went sideways in the lock  - I tried to correct it and drove the boat into the lock wall – smash(badly scratched and dented the bow) and then the operator closed the lock doors and discharged the lock – I haven’t seen a lock discharge so quickly – as we started to go down Penny realized she had tied off one of the ropes that she should have been letting out as we went down (down 3msuddenly the boat was being held up by that rope and the boat was tilting sideways – I rushed inside and got a knife rushed back on deck and cut the rope  - 12 tonne of boat dropped about 1m  - it was the  scariest thing I have been involved with – just goes to show how careful you have to be  - no errors. The German waterways are set up for commercial vessels and sports boats just have to fit in.

I am now very frightened going into lochs. We entered one yesterday to get into Elsfleth. It went up 4 meters, but it was a private loch going into a yacht club and the operator spoke good English and helped us tie up. It was a pleasant experience.

This is a picture of the loch we went in at Oldenburg.

A very scary Loch

The water in the loch gets big currents when the barge leaves. You have to hang onto the ropes very tightly. I am not sure I really want to go on, but I suppose the more lochs we have to do the better I will get at it.

We spent two days in Oldenburg where I found a Lonely Planet on Germany and what is better it is in English, so we can work out what is best to see in the bigger towns. In the smaller towns they do not have very much in English.

We then travelled to Elsfleth where we have decided to stay until Monday. They have a medieval festival on today and tomorrow. We wandered around this morning and had lunch. We had a large sausage in a bun and then Russel had matjes in a bun (looks like pickled herring) – he loved it. Then we ordered a piece of cake – it was huge – we shared. I now know why the German people are all overweight. It’s the sweet food they eat in large quantities. We certainly have noticed the difference in them compared to the Dutch. They are shorter and more over weight.

We left Elsfleth and headed to Bremen where we stayed nearly four days. We left about 2.30 in the afternoon as it was very hot and humid so we thought traveling would be more pleasant. It was so humid that I for the first time put on my bathers had a cold shower to cool down. We stopped in a little town called Aurich where the biggest electric storm finally hit and the rain came down and cooled us all down.

We left this morning before breakfast so we could get through the first loch early. We have since been through two more and are starting to learn how to best handle our ropes. We are in Wesser River which is no longer tidal. The river was tidal in Bremen and we were tied to a floating jetty on the side of the River very close to the old town.

Arcturus tied to floating jetty in Bremen

Bremen was fabulous. I really enjoyed the old city and we tried lots of local treats – long sausage in a very small bun covered in mustard was a local favourite. We did a city tour with a very passionate Bremen local and also a tour of the town hall. We caught the bus out to the botanical gardens to see the Rhododendrons and caught the train up to Bremer haven for the day.  

There are many statues in Bremen but the most famous is The Musician of Bremen in their famous pose. I search a local book shop and found the story in English so I can read it to Joshua when he gets a little older.

Whilst there we also attended a political meeting with the locals The Chancellor of Germany was speaking – there is an election soon.

We couldn’t get close enough to get a picture so took it of the big TV.

Bremen town centre

                                                                     A narrow street in Bremen.

One of many statues

 

Bremen at night

We had decided not to sail to Bremer Haven – a big mistake. There is so much to see. Many museums that you can’t see in one day. For those who are coming to Germany make sure you sail to Bremer Haven and stay at least three days.

We chose to see the Deutsches Auswanderer Haus. This exhibition showed the life of an Emigrant to America from the day they arrived on the wharf to the time they arrived in America at Ellis Island. Over 7 million people left Bremer Haven for America between 1830 to 1974. It was very realistic. We were given a boarding pass of an emigrant – Russel was Carl Laemmle who emigrated in 1884. He became one of  the famous Hollywood film producers. 

We boarded the boat and were able to look at the conditions that people traveled. All classes were shown.

 The picture below shows Russel arriving at Ellis Island and going through customs.

Today we are traveling down the Wesser River to Minden then onto Hanover.

We needed to go into this schleuse to get to Minden.

The schleuse at the top

We went to a yacht club that the Gilberts recommended about 4 klm out of Minden and there we found a couple of New Zealanders. We had two nights together attended the barby Saturday night where we filled up on the local spare ribs and then rode into Minden on the Sunday.

Germany is not as quiet as Holland on Sundays and we were able to go into a museum near the big schleuse (loch). This museum was on the waterways of Germany with working models. It was very interesting and for 1.5 euro we also got into watch the big loch working. Russel and I had come up this loch the day before with a tourist boat full of tourists taking photos of us

 

This is the model showing how the schleuse fils and emptys

We lalso watched the professionals also getting it wrong. When the schleuse was going down one of guys on the barge couldn’t get the rope off the bollard in the wall, so had to leave it and come and pick it up when the schleuse emptied. Next came a very big French hotel boat that took up the whole schleuse. He got his rope caught like I did and he needed help from another mate to leaver it off. It looked very dangerous.

The rope wouldn't come off so he had to leave it and attach another one as the schleuse went up.

It just fitted in!!!

                     
The large barges carry their own car. We watched this car coming off the boat. It was very interesting.

Germany is so different from Holland. It is a bigger country and one needs to travel long distances. We don’t usually like traveling for hours but it has to be here. We are on the Mittellandkanal now which is long and boring. I did the washing this morning as we were traveling along.

                                  

                                              A view from our helm of the Mittellandkanal

From Bremen to Minden we came through 8 locks and went up 46 metres all up and under 26 bridges.

We have now worked out a system for these schleuse. We sail in with all the fenders up as high as possible and Russel stops close to a ladder and there is a bollard in the wall that I can attach the centre rope to. I hold this until Russel comes and takes over. I then get a small rope and attach to the ladder and hold it tight when Russel as to take his rope off to put on the next bollard as we are going up. We keep repeating this until we get to the top. This morning we went through a 13 metre up schleuse.

                                      Waiting for Schleuse to open

                                 We are sailing into this loch. I will attach centre rope

                                           Russel holding centre rope waiting to go up.

                                                  Almost up the 13 metres

New Town Hall in Hannover. We caught a lift up to the top of the dome. The lift curved around the dome and actually tipped to the side as we were going up. Really scary!!!

                                                  Me in Hamelin with the Pied Piper

                                            Buildings in Celle

We left Hanover and traveled east on the Mittellandkanal for  about 7 hours until we pulled over at a gorgeous marina which reminded us of the early days of the Dawsville  cut development.

                                   We stayed here at Abbesbuttel for the night.

We left early the next morning and traveled about 4 klm and turned north off the Mittellandkanal onto the Elbeseitenkanal  and after  7.5 hours arrived at Uelzen where we stayed two nights because we went and had a look at the local railway station as suggested by the second harbourmaster. We had a meal at the yacht  club and met a few other travelers and spent another boozy night with a couple from Hamburg, who plied Russel with Vietnamese vodka. We were feeling a little delicate so stayed another night.

The entrance to the Railway station

Sunday we continued along the Elbeseitenkanal where after about three hours we arrived at the Luneburg twin ship lift. We were both  impressed with the marvel of engineering. We were called in with another barge. He didn’t leave us much room but we managed to slip our bow at his side and just snuck in. It was a bit scary when he left the lift because of his wash when he started his engines.

The lift took us down 32 metre in a bath tub.

 The railway station was unusual and impressive and very different, not what one would expect in Germany.

                                                 The Twin Ship  Lift

The wash as the barge was leaving

A few klm passed this lift we turned into the Elbe River and are now moored in the Yacht haven at Lauenburg. We went for a ride and found the most gorgeous old city. 

Whilst riding around we saw a sign which suggested boat storing so we went into Hitzler Werft which is a very large ship building works and they showed us the big hall where we could store our boat. So we can now rest. We have a home for our boat and its out of the water and in a big hall covered by a big tarp. They build ice breaking ships during the winter in the hall so we need to cover the boat from dust etc.

                                                     Arcturus new home!!!

So that day we headed to Hamburg to meet some German friends. We met this couple in Harlingen in The Netherlands and we had a drink with him and he showed us different things about Germany water ways.

We arrived in their yacht club which is about 20 klm out of Hamburg centre. They showed us the ropes and we sat and had coffee and a mandarin cheese cake Margrit had made. It was gorgeous and as they were leaving for Belgium the next day she gave us the rest of the cake.

                                      The beginings of a great friendship with Margrit and Dietmar

So we have been in Hamburg ever since and we love it. We ride down to the train station – about 3 klm and catch the train to central station. Our ticket covers all transport so we hop on and off trains and explore the city. We love Hamburg. It is the third largest city in Germany and there is work going on every where. It certainly doesn’t look like recession here.

Hamburg is a very large port. I glad we didn't leave the boat here. The wash from the ships and ferries would be very unfriendly.

The old warehouses of Hamburg

Hamburg town square

We couldn’t leave until 2.30 because of the tide so we went for a ride in the country side and came across a market and herb gardening place that was having a open day. We spent a little time roaming the glass houses. I have never seen so many tomato plants. All the vegetables were grown in glass and shade house, fully reticulated and heated.

We arrived in Laurenburg at about 7.30 and Herr Clem was waiting for us to arrive. He is going to look after our ship until next year. The railway is 100 metres from the hall and so is the Hotel we will stay at. It is a big company so we are not allowed to stay on the ship whist it is in the hall. We have booked the hotel for two days. We walk out of our room almost straight onto the station platform, so getting on the train at 8.05am won’t be such a struggle.

We left the next day and had a two day trip up the Elbe-Lubeck Kanal stopping in Molln overnight. The first day we had two up Schleuse (loch) and the next day we had 5 down schleuse. We are really getting good at it now.

A scene in Moln

Lubeck is a hanseatic city and is gorgeous. The Altstadt (old town) is very picturesque. We spent today riding around a walking tour. We went into many churches, which all had to be restored after WW11. There was so much damage done during 1942 to Lubeck by the British. In the Dom (cathedral) the bells were still on the floor where they fell after one bombing night. It was so sad to see.

                                                        The old gate in Lubeck.

The yatch club in Lubeck

Lubeck is famous for the Niederegger Marzipan. It has been made here since 1806. We had a look over the museum then sat in their café where Russel had a Marzipan cappuccino and marzipan cake and I had an ice cream parfait with marzipan. It was very yummy and 13 euros later we left.

We then visited the Theater Figueren Museum where we saw all sorts of puppets from many different countries. We spent an enjoyable hour there. The owner has a brother who has a shop in Scarborough. A small world.!!!

Next day we caught the train to Travemunde.This is the point where the Trave River flows into the Baltic Sea. We wanted to go and see it for ourselves, as we keep getting told to go to Scandinavian countries via Travemunde. It was calm but I still would feel uncomfortable going out into the Baltic Sea even if it is protected by islands. The East German border was 100 metres off the shores. The allies kept the beaches in West Germany. It is a picturesque seaside city

The beach at Travemunde

We went on the Passat – a historic sailing ship. We were told by the volunteers that it use to sail to Australia for wheat and grain.

After riding out along the coast, we went back to Lubeck and spent the night with a group of Germans and Americans at the local restaurant.  We had two glasses of red each which cost 18 euro. We could have bought 6 bottles of red at the local Supermarket for 18 euros. However we had fun and learnt lots about Germany. The haven master bought all the women a red rose, which was nice to take home.

Next day after coffee with the Americans we headed back to Lauenburg. The American couple has been traveling on a big sailing ship for the last 29 years. They are both now 77 and still enjoying it. I am not sure I will want to sail for that long, but at the moment we are really enjoying Germany.

It took two days to get back to Lauenburg and on the way we packed up the boat ready fro the winter. We arrived back in the wind and rain on Sunday at about 5.30pm to find out that Mr Clem was going away for a week and couldn’t put us in the hall before we leave. We were so disappointed. We must have looked because after awhile he changed his mind and put us in the hall that night. It took till about 9.30, but at least we were in the hall and could get the ship ready for the winter. We worked for the next two days really hard and left this morning for Heidelberg , where we will stay for three days, then two days in Frankfurt and home.

 

 

                                                                       Same shot as above but at night

This is where we left Arcturus for the winter

We trained to Heidleburg andspent to two days touring the castle and surround. it was well worth a visit.

Heidleburg from the castle

                                            Heidleburg castle

                                    

                                                  Russel in the castle

We trained to Frankfurt and flew home. Our 2009 trip is complete