Our Canaling Adventures: France 2013

We left Australia on May 12 and flew by Malaysia Airlines to Paris.

From KL to Paris we flew on the A380. We had seen this being made in Toulouse last year and we were quite excited to finally fly in this plane. The seating was so much better to sleep in. I actually slept quite well and we arrive in Paris not quite so exhausted as previous years.

We hired a car from the Paris Charles de Gaulle airport and drove to Corre where our Arcturus had spent the winter. Yes it rained all day!!! It was a shame as we hoped to spend some time sight seeing on the way.

We stopped to look at this viaduct on the way to Corre

Our first day on the boat was a lovely sunny day (the only sunny day we have had since arriving) and this gave us time to set up Arcturus for this year. It took us all day.

Next day we woke to find it raining but had planned to put Arcturus in the water, so we washed her in the rain before she was put in. No leaks!! And she started straight away so we then headed off to do some major shopping whilst we had the car.

Arcturus is now fully stocked (lots of wine) and ready to leave Corre. We drove the car to Epinal (once again in the rain) and caught a bus back.

The French country side is very green and full of fields of canola. It is very attractive.

The towns in this area are very old, but very interesting to drive through. We were told you could buy a house for 30000 – 40000 euro in Fontenoy le Chateau. This town is full of English, Swiss and Germans who have renovated for a holiday houses.

The French countryside – you can just see the canola in the distance.

A picture of Corre as we drive into the main street. It is not a big place.

Corre to St Jean De Losne

We woke on Saturday morning to a glorious sunny day (our second to date) said goodbye to everyone and headed off down the stream toward Saint Jean de Losne.

The river is flowing fast and is helping our boat speed. We have Arcturus running at just over 13Klm per hour, which is quite fast for her. We stopped at 3pm at Scey-sur-Soane and spent the rest of the day doing odd jobs.

We woke to another wet day, so we put on our wet weather gear and took off again. We fortunately can fit under all bridges so we at least were dry travelling along. We went through a number of tunnels and more ecluses (all down so it’s quick and easy). We ended up travelling with a hire boat with two young Swiss couples. It was great to have someone to talk to in the ecluses. One was a cook back in Zurich and ended up giving us a Russian potato salad that he had made. It was delicious. They hired the boat for the long weekend. It is only 3 hours to Zurich. The Europeans are lucky that they don’t have to travel so far for a different type of holiday.

We are about to enter the tunnel. There is a green light for us telling us it is safe to proceed. It is controlled by the loch keep via camera.

Us in the tunnel

We stopped at Gray on Sunday night, but couldn’t stay on the main quay as the river is too high and there was no free board to lean against. We followed the Swiss boat to a pontoon siding just out of Gray. I really want to see Gray as the last time I was here I spent the day in bed with the 24 hour wog. It rained all day but we decided that the rain will not bother us, so we put on our wet weather gear and walked into town. We decided not to ride as our bikes yet have not had the tyres checked.

Everything was closed!!! We did find a Boulangerie where we were able to get a baget. We are not sure if everything is always closed or if is because today is a bank holiday. Just my luck!!!

A very Grey Gray!!

We didn’t spend anytime in Gray. We headed off to Auxonne. It rained all day. It is now six o’clock and it has just stopped. We wore every bit of winter gear I could lay my hands on. We were very cold all day.

We have now settled in our boat for the night. The heater is on flat out and we have a drink in our hands. I really hope that tomorrow is a little kinder to us.

A little kinder but a cold winter’s day. We have sailed to St Jean De Losne where we have stocked up on stores a gain, fuelled the boat, commissioned our bikes and finally went for a ride.

Tomorrow we head up the Doubs River. They say it will be fast so I am a little hesitant. They are up ecluses also so not quite as easy sailing. We were getting very good at the down locks.

St Jean De Losne to Besancon

We left Saint Jean De Losne and sailed back up the la Soane a couple of kilometres until we came to the lock St Symphorien sur Soane . It is at this lock that you turn off the Soane and into the canalised Doubs River. We stayed the night on the other side of the lock and the next morning sailed to Dole. It rained al day!! But we got going as we wanted to get to Dole and stay for a few days.

We arrived in the Dole Plaisance to find the current extremely strong. It took us ages to pull the boat over to its tie up.

Cathedral at Dole

Canal in front of Louis Pasteur House

Dole is a word for bridge toll in ancient French. It owes its existence to an old bridge over the Doubs River. It is a very pretty little town with lots of narrow streets and old buildings with very little colour. It was here that Louis Pasteur was born and they have a museum in his house that he was born. We spent a couple of interesting hours in the museum. Pasteur was a physicist and a chemist who specialised in studying crystals.

He studied fermentation, making and keeping wine, silk worm, hen and sheep diseases and discovered pathogenic microbes and the way of tempering them to make vaccines.

It was the 24^th of May whilst we were in Dole – our 40^th wedding anniversary.

We decided to go out for lunch and in the evening sitting of our boat we would have a bottle of Mumm champagne. We went of the Mumm Cave whilst we were in the champagne country and had really enjoyed it. We decided to spoil ourselves.

We went to a gorgeous little French restaurant called Grain De Sel. We chose a 27 euro menu which gave us an entrée, main meal, cheeses and a sweet. We had a choice of two for each section so Russel chose one and I the other and we able to sample all their wares. It was true French cooking and we really enjoyed it along with a bottle of Rose.

We will both always remember our 40^th wedding anniversary.!!!

Drinking our Bottle of Mumm

In the restaurant

We wanted to leave the next day, but the canal had been closed because of too much rain and the loch was overflowing. We had three day to wait so we got on the net and decided to head for Lausanne which was a 1.30 hour journey by train into Switzerland.

We left the next day at about 10.00 and arrived in Lausanne in time for lunch. We booked into our hotel which was close to the train station but up this vert steep hill. In fact the whole of town centre is built up the hill with a huge lake at the bottom called Leman. One has to be a mountain goat. Even though the weather hadn’t changed we walked around the city in the rain.

The steep Climb to our hotel

A fountain in Lausanne

Over looking Lausanne

Next morning we rode down this huge hill to the Lake. It wasn’t raining at that moment so it was a pleasant ride around the lake with these huge ice covered mountains in the back ground.

Lausanne with snowed covered mountains

Lunchtime we got back on the train as we heard the canal had been opened. We arrived back at 2pm and packed up and headed to Ranchot a little village with enough spaces for 4 boats. We were joined by a couple of boats with German couples. It was good to have a chat. Germans are always very friendly.

The river is flowing very fast. This picture shows the edge of the barrage.

We must keep to the left so as not to get into the raging river.

It is very scary!!!

This wall is the only thing holding us from the barrage

We left the next morning and had a long sailing day to arrive in Besancon. To get to the Plaisance we had to go into a loch which entered straight into a tunnel. It was a first for us.

This is the unit we use to open the automatic locks

Entering a tunnel

Entering our last tunnel for the day. We are cold and wet!!!

We spent the next day siting in waiting rooms. Russel needed to go to the doctor!! We looked up the Tom Tom which gave us a few names. When we tried to find the first one we couldn’t. At the right time an English speaking Frenchman walked by. He helped by finding a doctor that could fit us in at 12.30. We then had to go to Radiology for an ultra sound then back to the Doctor. It appears Russel’s hernia operation he had back in 2005 has decided to play up. We were fortunately advised we could wait for surgery when he gets home in August. We slept better that night. We were so lucky to find that Frenchman.!!

Next day we thought we had better play tourist so on our bikes and we rode. The old city is encased by the curve of the River Doubs and we rode the complete circle following the river.

View of Besancon from the Citadel

We then caught a bus to the Citadelle. Besancon Citadel, one of Vauban’s masterpieces was built between 1668 and 1688. It extends over some 11 hectares and stands more than 100 meters above the old town, which lies below in a magnificent site almost entirely encircled by the River Doubs. The Citadel (meaning little city in Italian) is a fortress that has been restored. We spent a couple of hours wandering over the grounds and the museums. We then returned by bus to our bikes.

The Citadel

That night we went out for dinner and had a delicious meal of Moules and Frites (Mussel and chips). Its one of my favourite meals in

France

Next morning we woke to more rain however we decided to get on our bikes again and head for the Cathedral which houses the Astronomical Clock.

It was our intention to leave at 1.30 and head off the next adventure but it has rain all day and we didn’t feel like tackling the wet weather so we have spent the afternoon relaxing. Hopefully tomorrow won’t as wet and that they haven’t closed the river again.

We left about 9 o’clock. The river was very fast flowing and we were quite apprehensive.

We got through the first lock and as we were sailing up the river the VNF official stopped us to tell us the river was Ferme - Closed. We turned back to Besancon and here we will stay for a few days. It may open on the 3^rd. We are expecting a week of sunshine !!!!

Harrah!!!!

Besancon to Montbeliard

It rained and rained all day. There were three boats (an English couple, a French couple and us) on the floating jetty and we watched the river go up and up. We believe it went up over a meter. It was quite scary during the night. I had a restless sleep. The VNF made us sign a paper to say that we wouldn’t leave our boats and that they expected that the river would cover any access to the shore. They didn’t want to be responsible for any damage. It did cover the bottom path but we were still able to get off the next morning.

The Floating Pontoon in Besancon – we tied extra ropes on encase they broke

Next day we went to the VNF office and luck was on our side, just as we got there the big chief came out of his office. He spoke a little English. He explained that the river had to fall to 3.5 meters. It was then 3.776. He gave us the site that you look up. We watched the river go down.

The two sites are

http://www.vigicrues.gouv.fr/niveau3.php?idspc=18&idstation=823

This gave us the reading at Besancon.

http://www.vnf.fr/reseau/avibat.php

This site gives you all the canals that are closed or have problems with. We look this up everyday before we leave.

In all we had 6 days in Besancon. The French couple ran out of time and had to return to Dole. We continued on with the English couple – Dave and Wendy. We have been travelling with them for over a week now. It’s great to have company!!!

We travelled each day till about lunch time. We stopped at Deluz, Baumes Les Dames then a pretty little place called Clerval.

Dave and Wendy decided to out for dinner that night and had chosen a truckie restaurant which had a menu du jour – 12.50. euro. We joined them and had a really great meal with all the truckies.

Note we actually have summer gear on.!!!

We have been through some beautiful canals with high limestone walls. They build around them.

Yes the sun finally came out with a vengeance!!. We had some gorgeous summer days for over a week before the rain descended on us again.

Dave and Wendy in one of the many locks we do a day

We kept going into the Doubs River then into a lock then back into the Doubs. The river was still flowing very fast and at times quite scary. This is us entering a loch. We would have to wait whilst the loch filled and then opened. We would be right next to a barrage. I always sighed with relief when we went in.

This is what we could flow over. No wonder I was frightened.

This is the first lifting bridge we have seen in France. This was just before we arrived in Montbeliard

A narrow entrance to Montbeliard.

We loved Montbeliard and stayed two days. The previous day we had pushed a head of Wendy and Dave and went from 8.30 to 4.30. We were totally exhausted. Too many lochs!!!

The next day we decided to be a tourist for most of the day. We rode about 6 klm to the Peugeot Museum and spent a good couple of hours wandering around. I never knew that they didn’t only make cars. They made sewing machines, washing machines, motor bikes, bicycles, tools – it goes on and on. Well worth a visit.

A washing machine with a wringer

A sewing machine

This was one of the tours de France bikes.

The factory employs 12 thousand people. Montbeliard would be lost if they closed down.

We left Montbeliard and stopped at Montreux Chateau. A very pretty place to stop. We had finally reached the top of the hill. No more’ up locks’.!!

Today we spent the morning going down sixteen ‘down locks’ in 10 klms. We went from one lock straight into another. We had two girls that came with us, opening and closing the lochs for us.

Me in one of the locks. You might just see the next one in the distance.

We arrived in Dannemarie at about 11.30. This is a pretty little town with plenty of colour. You can see the German influence starting to show.

We had had a lot of rain last night and lock 31 was closed today. Hopefully it will be opened tomorrow and we will be able to head for Mulhouse.

The lock didn’t open but the VNF agreed to take us to Lock 28 . We could moor against an old Quai. We left at 9 o’clock and after 12 locks and a few kilometers we pulled up on the Quai with one other boat. It was only 11.30am.

Quai at Lock 28

We spent the afternoon cleaning our boat and then went for a ride along the canal to see why lock 31 was closed. It was loch 32 that was closed and we found the VNF there trying to open the door of the ecluse. We have been in a canal for awhile now – left the Doubs behind. It is at lock 31 where the Isles River flows into the canal and flows out after lock 33. They had heaps of rain and the Isle River had flowed and silted up the entrance doors to loch 32. Below are photos of them fixing the problem?

The water was up to the top of this bridge due to logs getting caught.

They had to remove the logs to clear the river.

They are removing the mud that built up against the lock gates. The women in the picture spoke English so she was able to tell us all about it.

The VNF control all the canals and rivers in France. They do a fabulous job. They really look after us very well. I am very impressed with the organisation. They also employ lots of people.

The Rhine

It was all go for the next day. We set out early encase we had problems but the river had really toned down and we sailed towards the Rhine – called the Grand Alsace Canal.

We were now in a large canal with heaps of very big barges. We arrived at the first large lock and waited 3 hours before we could get in. Half the locks were closed due to maintenance. There were big delays at each lock. The barges were in first and if there was any room then we were allowed in.

We tied up to this barge whilst we were waiting at first lock. One of the guys had just come back from Sydney so there was a lot to talk about.

We followed this barge into the big lock. See below.

It was like being back in Germany again!!!

We travelled with Dave and Wendy – an English couple. We always wait till all the barges are out of the lock. When they start up they produce a huge torrent of water that pushes you backwards. We never let go until they have gone. By the way the bollards are floating so it’s pretty easy locking.

This is on the Rhine. The castle is on the German side and we are on the French side.

This was our first stop on the Rhone.

Arcturus leaving a lock

We finally left the Rhine and headed down a small canal on the way to Strasbourg.

This was our last night with Dave and Wendy. They didn’t have to get to Strasbourg still the 23^rd. we had to be there the next day to greet the Hawkins family. This was the sunset we saw after a few bottles of wine.

The next day we travelled to Strasbourg. It was a beautiful canal lined with trees.

We arrived into Strasbourg to find the marina De Hopital was no longer. They had demolished everything. We had stayed here back in 2006 when we came through with the Gilberts. We went through the next lock and pulled up against the canal within walking distance to the centre of town.

Strasbourg to Nancy

Russel rode up to the railway station to meet the kids and I stayed back at the boat to greet them. We were all so excited to see one another. So started the 8 day trip with the family.

It was so exciting to have the kids finally on board. Josh couldn’t believe he was going to sleep on the boat. They spent a little time looking over the boat then we sat then down for the rules of the boat.

No going upstairs without an adult and when they do they must put on their life jacket. They kept very well to these rules.

Ethan loved to steer the boat with Pa.

Josh was a very good driver.

The next morning we all walked into the centre of Strasbourg to explore. Russel, I and the kids got on a petite train that took us to all the sites of the city. The kids were bored stiff but it gave Amanda and Dave a little time to explore.

On the Train!! Josh is checking out the route we are taking. It was very bumpy

We then promised a ride on the merry go round.

The first four days with the kids was extremely hot. It was humid and days over 36 degree. The second night in Strasbourg we moved down to a marina so we could charge the batteries and fill the water tanks. It happened to opposite the citadel where there was a fabulous kid’s park with playground and water to play in. the kids spent the afternoon there. We decided to leave the next day as it was just too hot for the all of us. We had been told about a spot in the forest that we could stay a night in.

We were so please when we arrived. It was a fabulous spot for swimming and for the scooter.

It was cold at first but we didn’t care. We were all so hot!!!

Next morning Dave and the kids went baget hunting and came home with three.!! Its amazing what you can find behind the tree line.

Next day we headed to Saverne where we stayed for a couple of nights.

Checking out the ecluse that we had to go in.!!!

Dave and Josh in Saverne

Ethy catching a ride from Pa

The canal going through Saverne.

Checking out the Ipad in the boat. Whenever we need peace we would stick it on!!

Next day we headed to Lutzelbourg where the kids climbed the hill to the castle. Josh walked all the way. The oldies went for a bike ride and then sat down at listened to the local kid’s school concert. At one stage I could here a noise and I looked up and saw everyone on top of the hill waving.

The castle is on top of this hill.!!

The family spent a lot of time sitting on front of the boat.

When we came into a lock Amanda would do the back rope and Josh and I would do the front. He was such a good help. Poor David had to look after Ethan.

In a Ecluse

Josh and Eth ready for bed. We kept the sheet on to protect our lounge!!

Finally Asleep!!!

We left the next day in the wind and rain and headed for the most exciting of all the days. Josh just loved it, Ethan was not impressed.

We first went to the D’Arzviller – basically its a big bath that goes up and down a hug hill. When we arrived we spent a little time watching the lift come down – then it was our turn. We were at the bottom.

It is coming down towards us.

The boats have come down the hill and are about to come out. We all raced back to the boat as it was now our turn.

This is us heading up.

As soon as we left the bath we headed into a tunnel. Josh just loved it. They played shadows on the walls to keep Ethan happy. He found it all a bit nerve racking.

In the Tunnel!!

We ended up in Niderviller where we stayed for two nights. The first day we found an inside park for the kids to play in. it’s amazing that one can find parks and kids things when you have them on board. I had never noticed them before.

It was from here that the kids caught a taxi to Sarrebourg and caught the train to Pairs to fly home.

Their last two days were very wet and really not much fun.

We need to thank Dave and Ethan for becoming our baget boys. Every morning they would head off to find the local Boulangerie – Dave would often come back with yummy cakes for morning tea.

This day they came back very wet with eclairs so we put my hat on to Ethan to warm him.

Josh Pa and I had lots of fun playing Boules – a very common game here in France. We had bought some kids ones. Amanda ended up taking them home.

We said our goodbyes and headed back to the boat to sail toward Nancy.

On the way we wnet through a very large ecluse. This is us in the bottom going down

The doors finally opening

Nancy is a gorgeous place and lots to see.

Stanislas Square. It was gorgeous

50 acre park. – Parc de La Pepiniere It was gorgeous!!

We stayed Sunday as well in Nancy so we could explore a little more. We went out for lunch and had a great meal. The desert was gorgeous. Four little sweets with Cream and Coffee.

That night we had drinks with a New Zealand couple. They were heading out for dinner and then to watch the light show in Stanislas Square. We joined them. The light show was fabulous. We were so glad we went.

Not a good photo but this was all against the Hotel de Ville.

Next day we said our goodbyes and headed down to the Embranchment de Nancy.

Today we did 15klm and 19 locks. It was hot and very exhausting. We are now having wine to wind down.

The first 13 locks were up locks about 3 meters high. It was very hard to get the ropes on so I suggested I walk up to the lock and using my hook attach the ropes. Russel then suggested the bike. We were travelling with a German couple and they also were having problems. It worked so well. I would ride up to the next lock and using my hook I would attach all four ropes. These lock were in a chain. This means open the first one and the rest will open automatically. However about 12.30 we came upon a lock that wasn’t working. I buzzed the VNF and while we were waiting we were able to have lunch. This worked well.

The next 5 locks were down locks. We arrived at a little landing called Richardmenil.

This must be a popular stop as we have about 10 boats moored here. Tomorrow will be a bun fight with everyone wanting to be first in line.

We left the next morning about 10am with the German couple and travelled a further 15 locks and 30 klms. We arrived in Charmes at about 5pm and had to moor up against a narrow boat.

You can see a bit of the narrow boat and ours.

We are travelling down the Canal de Vosges. It is one of the prettiest canals we have been down. I am really enjoying it in spite of all the locks. It follows the Moselle River. We went over it in an aqueduct as shown below.

The River Moselle

We decided we didn’t want to do another day of 15 locks and 30 klm to Epinal so we said goodbye to our German friends and didn’t leave until 12.00. Big mistake!!!!

We had woken to rain again and our remote to open the locks wouldn’t work all the time. We ended up taking a very long time to do 6 locks and 10 klm. The VNF ended up following us for a few locks to make sure we were able to get through. Also they were closed until 2pm so we had to wait at the third lock. Neither of us were very happy. We are now sitting in a very small place huddled in the boat as its going to rain all day and night.

Next day was no better. Problem locks and raining. We finally entered a lock that I just couldn’t get the ropes on after continually trying. (I even had a few tears) Russel had to climb this broken down ladder so I could pass the ropes to him.

After all this we decided to spend sometime in Epinal. We have stayed for three days and finally the sun is shining again.

We are moored in front of a gorgeous park.

The trouble with parking next to parks and especially on Friday and Saturday nights is the local kids sit and drink and stay up for hours. These kids were particularly noisy and ended up stealing two bikes from a barge that was moored at the end.

We were woken by a man shouting and the Capitan about how he had travelled for 7 years and had never had a problem until he came to Epinal. He was very angry. He turned out to be a New Zealander and didn’t lock his bikes on the barge.

That night we were sitting on the back of our boat having a drink and watching one of the many fishermen. Look I said to Russel, he must have a big fish!!! It turned out to be a bike that didn’t look like it had been there long. Russel went and spoke to the boys and then marched them down to the barge. Yes!! It was one of his. He was lucky we were watching.!!!

Whilst riding we came across many people playing boules in a competition

Today we decided to visit the local markets. Nearly every town has a market day and the bigger towns have a market hall. Epinal have markets every day.

Below is a picture inside the market hall. They sell everything you can think of. Cheeses, meat, bread, fruit and vegetables, poultry, turkeys, pigeons and so on.

They remind me of the Melbourne markets.

Outside the hall are many stalls selling clothes, shoes, hats etc.

We then went for a ride through the forest to the beginning of lock 14.

Tomorrow we have 14 locks (in a chain) to go through and they are close together. Apparently it takes about 3.5 hours.

The photo below shows the next lock in the distance. When you come out of one it automatically gets the next one going.

A photo of Epinal and the Moselle River.

This map shows how close the locks are all 14 of them. It took us just under 3 hours.

I rode my bike between the locks and using my hook took the rope up to the top. It worked really well and I got lots of exercise.

I would tie the hook on the back of the bike. You can just see the shadow of the hook.

me holding the rope from the top

Russel in the ecluse - you can see my rope being held by me

Russel is pulling the blue pole to sart the ecluse

We stayed in a little country town last night and went looking for a Boulangerie. We didn’t find one but we did find this!!!!

How’s that!! A vending machine that gives you baget and on Sundays croissants. The French thinks of everything.

Today we stopped very early and a gorgeous spot under some very cool trees.

Russel relaxing!!!

We travelled very slowly down the canal as we didn’t want to be in Corre until Saturday. We arrived on the Friday however.

We travelled on and of with a Dutch couple. We would catch each other when the locks and broken and you needed to ring VNF. We did finally get a new remote. Russel convinced them that ours was faulty.

Below are some of the scenery we saw on the way.

A very narrow passage

Every town has its own memorial to the fallen in both the wars. The French must have been sitting ducks when the Germans came. The countryside is full of little towns with no protection.

Our last stop on the canal. Russel getting ready to hit the town.

Here we found a cheese making factory but they were cleaning up so we missed out on seeing the cheese process. Below are pictures from our last stop before Coore.